Jewellery of the Royal Family: A Garrard History
Mid-19th Century
Cullinan V Brooch
Commissioned by Queen Mary to wear in the stomacher of her Delhi Durbar Parure, the centre stone is the 18.80 carat heart shape Cullinan V diamond. Cut from the 3,106 carat Cullinan Diamond, the largest diamond ever discovered, Garrard designed the mount so that the Cullinan V can be detached and worn with other jewels, including the Cullinan VIII Brooch, below.
The Cullinan VI and VIII Brooch
Among the nine large gems cut from the Cullinan Diamond, the 11.50 carat marquise cut Cullinan VI diamond was purchased by King Edward VII for Queen Alexandra in 1908, while the 6.80 carat emerald cut Cullinan VIII diamond was given to Queen Mary in 1910. This combination was favoured by Queen Elizabeth II, who wore the Cullinan VI as a pendant, suspended beneath the Cullinan VIII Brooch.
The Cullinan IX Ring
Made for Queen Mary, the Cullinan IX ring features a classic openwork 12 claw setting clasping the 4.40 carat Cullinan IX diamond – the smallest of the nine numbered stones cut from the great Cullinan Diamond.
The Imperial Crown of India
Set with 6,100 diamonds, the Imperial Crown of India was made for the crowning of King George V at the Delhi Durbar of 1911. Held to mark the coronation of King George V and Queen Mary as Emperor and Empress of India, one of Garrard’s directors accompanied the royal party to Delhi, anticipating any last-minute alterations.
The Delhi Durbar Parure
Alongside King George V’s Imperial Crown of India, Garrard also created a spectacular suite of jewels for Queen Mary to wear for the Delhi Durbar: an emerald and diamond necklace, tiara, earrings, brooch and stomacher. The necklace showcased eight cabochon emeralds, known collectively as the Cambridge emeralds, with two removable pendants, one set with the marquise cut Cullinan VII diamond. Queen Elizabeth II inherited the Delhi Durbar Necklace in 1953 and was pictured wearing it on many occasions.
Queen Mary’s Consort Crown
Set with three historic diamonds, the Koh-i-Noor and the Cullinan III and IV, Queen Mary commissioned this crown for the coronation of her husband, George V, in 1911. Inspired by Queen Alexandra’s Crown of 1902, the eight arches can be removed, transforming it into a circlet, which is how Queen Mary wore it at the coronation of her son, King George VI, in 1937. In 2023, Queen Camilla was crowned with Queen Mary’s Consort Crown. The first time in recent history that an existing crown has been used for the coronation of a Queen Consort, the controversial Koh-i-Noor was removed for the occasion.
1913
The Lover’s Knot Tiara
With no beginning and no end, the lover’s knot motif sweeps around this diamond and pearl tiara, created for Queen Mary. The most recognised pearl tiara in the Royal Collection, it was inherited by Queen Elizabeth II, who wore it regularly before loaning it to her new daughter-in-law Princess Diana in 1981, for whom it became a signature piece. More recently, a new generation of royals has been spotted in this iconic jewel, with Catherine, Princess of Wales wearing it regularly on state occasions.
Discover More: For the Ultimate Heirloom Jewels, Look to the Royal Family
1919
Queen Mary’s Fringe Tiara
Made at the request of Queen Mary, the Fringe Tiara is formed of alternating bars and spikes of diamonds. Like other convertible royal tiaras crafted by Garrard, it can also be worn as a necklace. Queen Mary gifted the tiara to Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother in 1936, who loaned it to her daughter, the future Queen Elizabeth II, to wear on her wedding day. It has since been worn at the weddings of Princess Anne in 1973 and Princess Beatrice in 2020.
Discover More: The Most-Loved Royal Wedding Tiara in History
1921
Queen Mary’s Art Deco Emerald Choker
The emeralds in Queen Mary’s Art Deco choker were a gift from the Ladies of India. Inherited by Queen Elizabeth II, who gave it to Princess Diana as a wedding gift, Diana famously transformed the choker into a jewelled headband for a ball in Melbourne during a Tour of Australia with His Majesty King Charles III, then the Prince of Wales. In December 2022, Catherine, Princess of Wales wore the choker to the Earth shot Prize Awards, which were founded by her husband Prince William.
1923
The Queen Mother’s Lotus Flower Tiara
Among the most romantic of the royal jewels crafted by Garrard for the British Royal Family, the Lotus Flower Tiara perfectly embodies the era in which it was made. Created in 1923 for Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother during the early years of her marriage to King George VI, the exquisite design draws inspiration from Egyptian iconography. Today, it is one of a suite of tiaras worn by Catherine, Princess of Wales on formal occasions.
Discover More: The Enduring Beauty of the Lotus Flower Tiara
1932 and 1935
Queen Mary’s Chain Link Bracelets
Queen Mary purchased the first diamond chain link bracelet from Garrard in 1932, with the second made at the Queen’s request three years later. The innovative design meant that the two could be joined together and worn as a choker.
1937
The Imperial State Crown
Used at the coronation of King Charles III in 2023, the Imperial State Crown was made by Garrard for the coronation of his grandfather, George VI, in 1937 and subsequently used to crown his mother, Queen Elizabeth II, in 1953. It is set with some of the most famous stones in the Royal Collection, including the Cullinan II diamond, the Stuart Sapphire, the Black Prince’s Ruby and St Edward’s Sapphire, said to have been worn in a ring by Edward the Confessor.
Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother’s Consort Crown
Made by Garrard for Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother to wear to the coronation of her husband, King George VI, many of the diamonds were repurposed from Queen Victoria’s Regal Circlet. The Koh-i-Noor, history’s most famous – and controversial – diamond, was set in a cross at the front of the crown.
The Spencer Tiara
The arrival of a new Queen Consort saw the entrance a new Lady of the Bedchamber for Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother: Cynthia Spencer, wife of the 7th Earl Spencer. The Spencer Tiara was crafted for her to wear to royal events. Inherited by her son John, the 8th Earl Spencer and Princess Diana’s father, Princess Diana wore the tiara on multiple occasions, including in 1981 for her wedding to King Charles III, then Prince of Wales.
Read More: The Modern History of Princess Diana’s Wedding Tiara
1939
Queen Mary's Floret Earrings
Aet with two large brilliant cut diamonds, taken from a pair of solitaire earrings given as a gift to Queen Mary in 1893, Queen Elizabeth II inherited the Floret Earrings from her grandmother in 1953 and wore them often.
1950
Queen Elizabeth II's Festoon Necklace
Commissioned by King George VI for his daughter, the then Princess Elizabeth, the Festoon Necklace comprises 105 diamond collets that were passed to the king as heirlooms of the crown. The necklace was worn by Catherine, Princess of Wales for an official portrait to mark the coronation of HM King Charles III.
1952
Queen Elizabeth II's South Africa Bracelet
Queen Elizabeth II's South Africa bracelet was created from using diamonds removed from a South Africa Necklace, a gift from the Government of South Africa to celebrate her 21st birthday in 1947.
1952-3
Queen Elizabeth II's Armills
Created in 22 carat gold for Queen Elizabeth II's coronation in 1953 to replace the previous Armills, which had been in use since 1661. Referred to as "bracelets of sincerity and wisdom", they were among the ceremonial regalia presented to HM King Charles III at his coronation.
1957
Queen Elizabeth II’s Brazilian Aquamarine Parure
Queen Elizabeth II commissioned Garrard to create the Brazilian Aquamarine Tiara to wear with her aquamarine necklace and earrings – a coronation gift from the President of Brazil. The tiara was later modified by Garrard, with four fan-shaped motifs and the large aquamarine pendant of the necklace removed and reset at the front of the tiara.
Read More: Queen Elizabeth II’s Brazilian Aquamarine Tiara: A Homage to Brazil
1973
Queen Elizabeth II’s Burmese Ruby Tiara
The Burmese Ruby tiara was commissioned by Queen Elizabeth II with instructions to incorporate a collection of 96 Burmese rubies – a wedding gift from the people of Burma. The rubies and diamonds are set in a series of rose motifs inspired by the Tudor Rose, the heraldic symbol of Britain and the inspiration for our Tudor Rose collection. The tiara was worn by Queen Camilla at a state banquet in 2023.
1980
Queen Elizabeth II’s Pearl Choker
In 1980, Queen Elizabeth II commissioned Garrard to create a pearl and diamond necklace. Using freshwater pearls from her collection, gifted to the Queen by the Japanese government during a state visit in 1975, a four-strand choker was proposed, with the pearls united by a curved diamond clasp. In 1982, the Queen loaned the choker to Diana, Princess of Wales, who famously wore it to a banquet at Hampton Court Palace, paired with Queen Mary’s Lover’s Knot Tiara. More recently, Catherine, Princess of Wales, has worn the elegant piece on several occasions.
1980s
The York Tiara
Given to Sarah, Duchess of York as a wedding gift from Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip, Sarah wore the York Tiara on her wedding day in 1986. The distinctive diamond scroll design reappeared in 2023 on the head of Sarah’s daughter, Princess Beatrice, at the wedding of Crown Prince Hussein of Jordan.
1981
Princess Diana’s Sapphire Cluster Engagement Ring
Globally famous, Princess Diana’s sapphire cluster engagement ring is perhaps the most iconic royal jewel ever made by Garrard. Personally chosen by Diana, the ring, set with a 12 carat Ceylon sapphire, was inherited by Prince Harry after Diana’s death. In 2010, Prince Harry chose to give his mother’s jewel to William, Prince of Wales so that he could propose to Catherine, Princess of Wales with it.
Discover More: Something Blue: A Royal Love Story
1997
Princess Diana’s Swan Lake Suite
Princess Diana collaborated with Garrard on the South Sea pearl and diamond necklace that she wore to a performance of Swan Lake at the Royal Albert Hall. One of her final public appearances, Diana loved the necklace so much that she returned to Garrard shortly after to request a pair of earrings be made to match. Sadly, she passed away before the earrings were completed and never got the chance to wear the elegant pearl jewels together. In honour of Diana, the jewels are better known today as the Swan Lake Suite.