28 October 2026
Ruby: Meaning, Heritage & How to Choose
Red has always held a particular significance. A colour associated with love, passion and strength, it finds one of its most captivating expressions in ruby.
The red variety of corundum, ruby is among the world’s most prized coloured gemstones. Its hue comes principally from chromium, with exceptional stones displaying vibrant red, sometimes with a slight purplish undertone. These are admired for their intensity, saturation and individual character. Yet choosing a ruby is about more than colour alone. Origin, treatment, cut and the unique characteristics of each stone all contribute to its beauty and rarity.
For centuries, ruby has been associated with royalty, ceremony and jewels of extraordinary significance. At Garrard, that history also leads to one of our most enduring design inspirations: the Tudor Rose.
Ruby is defined by red, but within that colour exists a remarkable spectrum. The most sought-after stones typically display a pure, vivid red to slightly purplish red, with a richness of saturation that allows the gemstone to appear alive with colour. GIA similarly identifies colour as the most important quality factor in ruby.
The term Pigeon’s Blood has historically been used to describe particularly vivid red rubies. It is a traditional trade designation rather than an indication of geographic origin, and the appearance of rubies can vary considerably even when they are sourced from the same region.
This individuality is central to the appeal of ruby. Each stone possesses its own balance of colour, light and character.
Garrard’s Ruby Heritage
Garrard’s relationship with ruby is woven into a history of creating jewels for some of the most significant moments in British royal life. Founded in London in 1735 and appointed the first official Crown Jeweller in 1843, Garrard went on to create, remodel and care for many of the most celebrated jewels associated with the British Royal Family.
Among them are two remarkable ruby tiaras, each telling a distinctly different story.
The Oriental Circlet
In 1853, Garrard created the Oriental Circlet for Queen Victoria under the direction of Prince Albert. Inspired by Mughal design, the jewel originally featured lotus flowers, arches, opals and approximately 2,600 diamonds.
The circlet later returned to Garrard when Queen Alexandra requested that its opals be replaced with rubies. The transformation introduced the rich red colour by which the jewel is recognised today, while retaining the distinctive character of Prince Albert’s original design.
The Burmese Ruby Tiara
More than a century later, ruby became the focus of another important Garrard royal commission.
In 1973, Queen Elizabeth II commissioned Garrard to create a tiara incorporating 96 rubies presented to her as a wedding gift by the people of Burma.
Set alongside diamonds, the rubies form a series of flowers inspired by the Tudor Rose. The design brought together the significance of the gifted gemstones and one of England’s most recognisable emblems.
From the Royal Archive to Tudor Rose
The floral motifs of the Burmese Ruby Tiara find a new expression in our Tudor Rose collection. Traditionally uniting the roses of Lancaster and York, the emblem carries a message of unity and togetherness that continues to inspire our designs.
Sculpted petals trace the ruffled silhouette of an English rose, illuminated by pavé diamonds and coloured gemstones. Drawing on our royal heritage, each creation brings a playful freedom to the historic motif, inviting you to follow your own nature.
How to Choose a Ruby Ring
Begin with Colour
Look for a red that appeals to you, then consider its brightness and consistency. View the ruby in different lighting conditions where possible, noticing whether its colour remains vibrant or develops areas that appear overly dark. The most beautiful ruby is ultimately one whose colour captivates you.
Look at Clarity and Transparency
Natural rubies commonly contain inclusions formed as the crystal grew. Their presence is part of the gemstone's character and does not necessarily diminish its beauty. Consider how light travels through the ruby and whether any visible inclusions distract from its colour or affect its durability.
Consider the Cut
Oval and cushion shapes are common choices for ruby. Other shapes, including pear, round and emerald cuts, offer different possibilities for design. The cutter works with the natural stone, balancing colour, light and the preservation. Look for a gemstone with brightness across its face rather than a conspicuous pale or transparent area at its centre.
Understand Treatment
Natural and untreated mean different things. A ruby formed in the earth may subsequently have been treated to enhance its appearance. Heat treatment is common, while other processes, including fracture filling, can affect value and care. Ask our client care team about the gemstone's treatment history and any supporting documentation.
Choose the Complete Jewel
The setting shapes the way a ruby is seen. Platinum and white gold create a crisp contrast, while yellow and rose gold introduce warmth. Diamonds can bring additional light to the design. Consider proportion, comfort and how the ring feels on your hand. The complete jewel should feel right for you.
Balance Size and Quality
A larger ruby is not necessarily a more beautiful one. Colour, clarity and cut all influence its appearance, while fine-quality rubies become increasingly rare at larger sizes. Consider the balance of these qualities rather than carat weight alone, choosing a gemstone that appeals to you.
Ruby Jewellery : Your Questions Answered
Where do rubies come from?
Important sources include Myanmar, Mozambique and Sri Lanka. Origin can influence rarity and value, but it does not guarantee quality. Each ruby should be considered on its own merits.
Where does the name ruby come from?
The name ruby derives from the Latin ruber, meaning red, reflecting the colour that has made the gemstone so prized throughout history.
What makes a ruby valuable?
Colour, clarity, cut, carat weight and treatment all contribute to value, with geographic origin also relevant in some cases. Fine colour combined with good transparency and significant size is particularly rare.
Is ruby suitable for everyday jewellery?
Yes. Ruby can be worn regularly when set and cared for appropriately, although treatment can affect its durability. Stones with fracture filling require particular care. Protect all ruby jewellery from knocks and follow advice specific to the gemstone and its setting.
Can a ruby scratch or break?
Ruby is highly resistant to scratching, but it can still chip or fracture following an impact. Its durability does not make it indestructible.
How should ruby jewellery be cleaned?
Cleaning advice depends on the gemstone’s treatment and the complete jewel. Untreated and conventionally heat treated rubies can generally be cleaned with warm soapy water. Fracture filled material requires gentler care, and ultrasonic or steam cleaning should only be considered with professional guidance.
Is ruby a birthstone?
Ruby is the birthstone for July, offering another personal reason to choose this richly coloured gemstone.
Which wedding anniversary does ruby represent?
Ruby traditionally marks the 40th wedding anniversary, making it a meaningful choice for a relationship celebrated across four decades. A ring, a pair of earrings or a pendant offers different ways to mark the occasion. Let the choice reflect the person who will wear it: their love of colour, their favourite silhouettes and the jewels they reach for every day. Visit our Guide to Anniversary Gemstones to find out more.